A LETTER FROM
PENNSYLVANIA
TO A FRIEND IN ENGLAND: CONTAINING VALUABLE INFORMATION WITH RESPECT TO
AMERICA.
BY L. J. JARDINE, M.D.
BATH, PRINTED BY R. CRUTTWELL; AND SOLD BY DILLY, LONDON; LLOYD, AND COTTLE, BRISTOL; AND BULL AND CO. AND EVANS, BATH.
MDCCXCV.
[ONE SHILLING.]
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE following Letter was not designed by its Author for publication, but merely to gratify the wishes of a friend, who requested some information respecting the state of Land, Society, and Manners in PENNSYLVANIA. This information Dr. JARDINE'S friend takes the liberty of laying before the public, in the expectation that it may be acceptable and useful to those persons who have any design of crossing the ATLANTIC.
A LETTER, &c.
Burlington,
Dec.
16, 1794.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I Have not been able before this time to send you a letter which would be satisfactory to you; and I am very apprehensive the hurry of removing to this place, and putting things in a little order, will render this very incomplete.
With respect to the Voyage, I must advise all my friends who design to undertake it, to expect it will be attended with many uncomfortable circumstances. Were I to cross the Atlantic again with a party of my friends, I would most certainly lay in my own stock of provisions, and have, in a great degree, the superintendance of their cooking; as the enjoyment of the food depends fully as much on the mode of preparing it for the meals, as upon its goodness. I do assure you, that, although I was not sea-sick once during the voyage, my stomach was rendered so delicate by the state of the meat when put on the table, that I scarcely made one good meal. All sorts of fruit are most highly grateful, particularly to the sick. The very small variety which is found on board ship, makes it of vast consequence to have a pleasant company, and most of all a cheerful, good-humoured captain, who will contribute more to moderate the tediousness of the voyage, than all other circumstances put together; and this for many obvious reasons; but, particularly, because he will satisfy the minds of those, who, being unused to the sea, will be perpetually imagining danger where it does not exist. Books of the most trifling kind are the most useful: those which require much attention cannot be read. I have such an idea of the safeness of the voyage, in a good ship, managed by a captain of good sense, that I should have no apprehension of danger in undertaking it. I should dread nothing but feelings which are always excited by great tediousness and want of variety; the unpleasantness of which it is not in my power to describe. The seasickness is by no means to be feared; in general it passes off in a few days; and where it continues, it is rather useful than otherwise.
On your arrival at Philadelphia you are not to expect accommodations at taverns as in England. The sitting rooms are public; and you are expected on the day of your arrival to procure yourself lodgings. The lodgings are exceedingly extravagant, from six to ten dollars each person per week: the table but moderate; and the beverage, porter, or rum-and-water. House-rent in Philadelphia is much higher than in Bristol; house-keeping much dearer; the wages of the most ignorant servants not less than a dollar a week; and these very difficultly to be procured.
When I left England, you know, my inclinations led me to the projecled settlement on the Loyal Sock Creek, in the north-west part of Pennsylvania. However, as I thought it possible we had received our accounts of this land from persons who were in some degree interested, you recollect I was not very sanguine respecting it; but had resolved to examine for myself into the state of the land in this country. When we arrived at Philadelphia, we were informed the scheme was given up; which disappointed us all very much. The state of the case was this:— Mr. C. when he was here before, and other gentlemen, were of opinion, that it would be very desirable for English emigrants to have an asylum in this country, where it might be in their power to support themselves and families, upon land which would be sold at so cheap a rate as to be within the reach of persons of the smallest property. Mr. R. had made a purchase of a considerable tract of land near the Loyal Sock; Mr. P. had made a similar one; but, in order to render the plan complete, it was necessary to add so much more to what they had purchased as would raise the whole amount to about 300,000 acres; less than which they thought would not be sufficient for an English settlement. Mr. C. and the other gentlemen applied to Messrs. Morris and Nicholson, who are the principal proprietors of land in that state, and who were in possession of all the land adjoining the purchased tracts. A contract: was entered into for the quantity of land which was wanted, on condition it should prove, upon examination, to be, what they said it was, good land: This was the stage of the business when Mr. C. returned to England; and upon this he acted; taking it for granted nothing could occur to frustrate the scheme. However, after his departure, Messrs. P. and H. with surveyors, &c. went over the land, and found a great part of it stoney and bad. Messrs. H. returned to Philadelphia exceedingly dissatisfied, and gave up the scheme. But as many thousand acres were already in the possession of Messrs. R. and P. which would accommodate a great number of families, and could be had at prime cost, which was one dollar per acre, some friends joined me in thinking it desirable to visit these tracts; as well for the purpose of judging for ourselves respecting them, as of having an opportunity of examining the most eligible situations in Pennsylvania, which we were informed would present themselves to us in the course of this journey.
Having stayed a few days in Philadelphia for the purpose of purchasing a horse each, we set off on the 16th of October. We travelled near the Schuylkill, through Norris-Town, Reading, Hamburgh, and over the Blue Mountains to Sunbury; which was a journey of about 130 miles. We saw a great deal of very excellent land, and much exceedingly bad. Near the towns the price is from six to fifteen pounds per acre,
When I mention money, I mean English money.
with improvements, such as a wooden house, barn, and a few acres cleared and fenced. At a considerable distance from the Schuylkill and from the towns, it may be had from nine shillings to three or four pounds. The produce of the land is not readily taken to market; the greater part of it having no navigable river near it, and the Schuylkill itself being, as yet, imperfectly so.
The sersations which I every moment experienced from the view of so beautiful a country, were infinitely more delightful than any English prospect ever produced in me. There was something so peculiarly striking and grand in the appearance of a country consisting of small hills and prodigious woods, with here and there a cultivated spot, that I, who have never been very guilty of enthusiasm, felt what I suppose people of taste commonly call raptures. But whether this be the proper term for my feelings must be left to persons of refinement to determine. I dare not be positive.
For the two last days, except within a few miles of Sunbury, we saw scarcely any thing but woods; and those of little value, either for timber or soil, being so distant. from a market. Sunbury is a pretty, populous town, on the banks of the Susquehanna: it has several good taverns. About a mile from Sunbury is the ferry by which we passed to Northumberland. This town is situated much more pleasantly than any town I ever saw. It lies exactly in what. are called the Forks of the Susquehanna; that is, where that river divides into the west and north-east branches. The land gently rises from the river till it forms a small hill; the town on this account being a good deal elevated above the surface of the water, gives a view of the two branches of the grand Susquehanna below them, and of a division of the north-east branch, produced by a large Is;land which is situated near the Forks. It has also in view the whole of the town of Sunbury, and of the hills on the other side of both branches of the river; the appearance of which, consisting of various kinds of trees, but particularly of pine, is uncommonly romantic. The town is not a goad one; the houses are mostly built of wood. We visited Dr. Priestley, who rents a wooden house in this place. The Doctor was in very good spirits: his appearance is considerably younger than when I saw him before; which effect perhaps is produced by his being without a wig. He rejoices much strong affection for it, on account of his friends there; and hinted to us a desire to visit it after the troubles in Europe are over. He was much disappointed in finding P. had changed his coat, as he had provided an unitarian chapel for him at New-York : he is now at a loss for one who has zeal enough to undertake it. The Doctor has made a purchase of land adjoining the town, upon which he is building a house.
It being our wish as soon as possible to visit the Loyal Sock woods, we furnished ourselves with additional blankets, provision, &c. and started after a delightful ride on the west branch, through the Chilisquaque valley. We reached Muncy, from whence we intended to sally forth into the woods; but heavy rain coming on, and continuing for many hours, rendered it unsafe to sleep on the ground. The land in that neighbourhood is good, and the average price of it nearly the same as of what we had before seen.
Being desirous of seeing a new settlement, to enable us to decide, on our return from the woods, whether we would venture to commence one ourselves, we were informed that there was a French one on the north-east branch of the Susquehanna, which had been begun exactly one year; the distance of which from Northumberland was 150 miles. Upon this journey we immediately determined, and ordered a guide to meet us at the settlement, in order to conduct us through the Loyal Sock woods. We set off on the north-east branch, and in five days arrived at the settlement. In the course of this journey we met with much worse and more dangerous roads than I ever saw. The accommodations also, with respect to sleeping, wretched indeed. Eating, as in every part of Pennsylvania, pretty good: excellent venison often presenting itself three times a day. It was on this journey I first slept on the floor, on straw, in the same room with all the family, in a log-house, much exposed to air, after a complete wetting and great fatigue, and with no other cordial than a good fire at my feet, and a draught of milk and water. On this route also we lost our way in the woods at night, in a violent shower of rain; on which occasion our terror was great, having no guide, and no prospect of any thing but wandering amongst wild beasts the whole of the night. The only resource we had, was for us all to join in a loud outcry, hoping it might be heard by persons who would lead us into the right road, which very happily succeeded. On the next morning we reached the town of the settlement, called French-Town, upon the banks of the Susquehanna. This settlement is situated (as you may see in Howel's map of Pennsylvania) in a bend of the river, a little below a place called Standing-Stone. It was established by several wealthy French men, most of whom had belonged to the constituent assembly of France; such as Noailles, Talon, Blacon, Tallerand, &c. who have spared no expence to accommodate the settlers with all kinds of conveniencies; and have, by their preparations, removed the principal difficulties in the way of settling in such a situation. The town has already two very good taverns, one kept by Captain (formerly Baron) Beaulieu; about forty houses, all of wood, some very well built; particularly one belonging to Talon, which has sixteen very good rooms, and one very large one, elegantly furnished. At this house people find welcome on their arrival. During the three days we spent in the town, we were often invited by Blacon to visit the party of French ladies and gentlemen who were there. We found them sensible and polite people, and full of mirth and gaiety. We were so much pleased with them all, that we felt a degree of prepossession in favour of the settlement. The extent of the land is about a million of acres; the greatest part of which is exceedingly rich and good. There are already between three and four hundred families; and their progress in clearing lands and making roads is really astonishing. The original price of the land was one dollar per acre; it is now bought at six shillings. The settlers are called aristocrats by the French republicans in Philadelphia; but be that as it may, aristocracy in an American settlement cannot long survive: these people have already given up their titles.
From French-Town we set off for the Loyal-Sock creek, near the waters of which we pitched our tents three nights. We built our tabernacles of boughs and leaves; and the weather being fine, we kept ourselves sufficiently warm by means of a prodigious fire at our feet. We felt very few apprehensions on account of wild beasts, as they are very rarely to be met with, and are perfectly harmless, being terrified by the appearance even of a child.
After encountering very important difficulties in this route, from the north-east to the west branch of the Susquehanna, where was nothing but trees and wild beasts, we again reached the tavern at Muncy, and at length arrived at that tract of land which it was our object to see. Here we reflected upon the distance from market, upon a state of seclusion from the rest of mankind, and upon some other circumstances which appeared to
us
insuperable difficulties in the way of our
commencing
a settlement. The timber also, so far from being an object, is so much in the way on account of the prodigious bulk and number of the trees, as to render destruction by fire the only mode of getting rid of them. The trees, which consist principally of hemlock, a species of pine, are from nine to twenty-seven feet in circumference, and one hundred to one hundred and twenty in height; the oak, the hiccory, and the chesnut, are not much less. Besides, at the commencement of a settlement, it would be necessary for families to reside in some town during the clearing and cultivation of the land; unless, like the New-Englanders, they had been educated in these difficulties; or, like the French, they had the greater part of them previously removed. But, I must own, I should have been effectually prevented from settling there, merely by the improbability of being joined by a sufficient number of companions. Thus determined with respect to the Loyal Sock, we returned once more to Northumberland.
As an English settlement was now out of the question, it became necessary to direct our attention to some other plan of settling; and it appeared the most desirable to look out for situations which were already in some degree inhabited. It is pretty generally understood, that what are called cultivated lands, (American agriculture being very bad) are exhausted lands. It was, therefore, our object to find out such as were partially cleared and cultivated. The neighbourhood of the Forks of the Susquehanna appeared very eligible, on account of the healthfulness of its situation, and its proximity to so large a river. We then employed ourselves in examining the tracts near the town of Northumberland. The land is in part cleared on both branches of the river, within the distance of eight or ten miles from the town. Within about two miles of the town it is not to be bought under four or five pounds per acre. At a greater distance, from three to two pounds. The whole of this land is exceedingly good, and fit both for corn and grazing, particularly the latter, on account of its being on the river. The land at the distance of about two miles from the town, and the same from the river, in an uncleared state, may be bought for a guinea per acre. The ready market both for wood and produce makes this a very desirable situation. The mere article of wood, within three miles of the town, will more than pay all the expences of clearing. This is a very populous neighbourhood.
The expences of this situation would be nearly these: 100 acres (which it seems are sufficient) at 3l. per acre, 300l.—100l. or less to be advanced at first, and the remainder in small sums, paying legal interest: but to those who can advance the whole, considerable allowance is made. Labour is procured at about two shillings a day; but labourers are scarce. The house and barn would cost about 200l.; and the stock, at first, about 100l. Families, while the house, &c. are preparing, might be accommodated with houses, or lodgings, at Northumberland, at a very moderate rate. Having gained this information, we lost no time in setting off again for Philadelphia, with a view to ascertain, as soon as possible, the price of land in other situations. Having heard much of the land in Lancaster county, we returned that way; but we were soon satisfied respecting the land in that and the other counties through which we passed; as the price of it was from six to twenty pounds per acre, even at a considerable distance from the Susquehanna. We reached Philadelphia a fortnight since, undetermined where to settle; but, however, highly delighted with our journey. It was a great satisfaction to us to have ascertained the value of lands in those parts of Pennsylvania, which are most eligible on account of climate and soil.
Having given you a sort of history of my tour, you will of course expect my opinion respecting the country, &c. and also an account of my own intentions.
You perceive the
Back Lands,
as they are called, recommend themselves by the cheapness of their purchase, and the great probability there is of their being, in the course of time, of considerable value; as all the Pennsylvania lands are now so rapidly rising in price, that within the last two years they have increased almost one-third. The difficulties, however, in the way of settling in so remote a situation, are so great, as effectually to deter me from undertaking it. The next resource is to the land in peopled parts of the state, the price of which, very highly cultivated and well built upon, is so much too high, as not to be at all an object of my attention: the price of 200 acres of such a description is from 2 to 4,000l. It appears that the average price of good land, with little or no improvements, is about 3l. per acre. This is about the price which I think Europeans, unaccustomed to much labour, fatigue, and seclusion from the world, must give for that land and that situation which will render them comfortable and happy: I advise none of my friends to think of any thing else. I am also decidedly of opinion, from what I have seen, and from the enquiries I have made, that Pennsylvania is the most healthful state; and that Northumberland is by far to be preferred to all the other counties of Pennsylvania; as it is more healthful, and better situated with respect to the whole of the United States. I have no doubt that the land near the town of Northumberland is inferior to none.
Having given you this statement, you will perceive whither my inclinations lead me. But I have not yet entirely made up my mind. I do sincerely assure you, I have found America infinitely superior to my expectations. The government, you know, is not strictly republican; yet it is so admirably administered, as most successfully to consult the happiness of the people. There have been, it is true, of late, some serious insurrections in the western counties of Pennsylvania, on account of an excise tax upon whiskey, the beverage of the country, which have been happily quelled; but which, I hope, will lead to the repeal and the prevention of all indirect taxes. The United States have also been lately at war with the Indians; with the circumstances of which business, I believe, few in England are acquainted; and, therefore, the United States have generally been supposed to be the aggrieved party. But you will judge whether they were or not. At the time when the British governed this country, the line of separation between their property and that of the Indians was formed by the western waters; that is, the Ohio and Allegany rivers. The Indians having, at that time, much more land than it was probable they would ever want, a treaty was made between them and the British, in which a pre-emption right to that land was secured to the British; who, previous to the revolution, made no use of it. At the end of the American war, however, the British, in their treaty with the United States, guaranteed them the pre-emption right which the Indians had ensured to the British by their treaty. In consequence of this, many settlements have been formed on these waters under the protection of this government. But the Indians considered that the British could, upon no just principle, transfer the right from themselves to any others; and molested the settlers to such a degree as to make it necessary for them to call upon this government for redress and protection. The United States immediately went to war with the Indians: the consequence was a treaty, by which they guaranteed the same right to the Americans. It is, however, certain that the British did instigate the Indians to this business, and did encourage them, by means of supplies of various kinds, to persevere in the war.
Although civil liberty is very great in this country, political parties run pretty high. The Federalist party have much the same disposition as the Court party in England: however, the Anti-federalists are too numerous and strong to suffer any encroachments on the liberties of the people. Both, however, equally rejoice in the successes of the French.
The climate of this country is infinitely superior to that of England. We have had almost uniformly fine weather since we arrived, which was on the 10th of October. Such clearness of the atmosphere I never saw before. And I have felt, what Dr. Priestley told me he had constantly experienced, a peculiar state of the air, which has invariably kept my spirits higher and more comfortable than I can describe. This effect we have all felt. Indeed
I
have good reason for thinking the air healthful, for I have not had the least attack of my complaint since my arrival.
We know nothing here of religious persecution, the most dreadful of all evils; as religion, I mean superstition, is not the favourite pursuit of America; nor is it often the subject of conversation.
The American people are very civil, provided you lay aside European importance. So much equality and real independence I never expected to see. But the European, who thinks he shall have more ease in this country than in Europe, will be most dreadfully disappointed; as subordination is scarcely known here. We are, consequently, obliged to do much for ourselves. I wish not to see any of my friends here who would not be pleased with this state of things; as I think they are more happy where they are: for my own part, I like it.
The Americans, it must be acknowledged, do not exhibit those flights of genius which are found in England; but I am sure, as a body, the people of England, in the same pursuits, have not half their information or good sense.
In Philadelphia the expences are much greater than in Bristol. They are nearly these in the towns at the distance of twenty or thirty miles from Philadelphia:—houserent one-third dearer than in England: servants wages 3s. per week: beef, mutton, and poultry 4d. per pound: pork 5d.: bacon and cheese 5½d.: fresh butter 13½d.: salt butter 11d.: loaf-sugar 14d.: best brown sugar 7¼d.: flour 3½d.: bread 2½d.: eggs 13½d. per doz.: wearing apparel of all kinds, one-third dearer than in England: mahogany and other wooden goods, about the same price as there: earthen ware and glass at least three times as high: tin ware as dear again: feathers 2s. 8¼d. per pound: wood, which is the article used, makes firing twice as dear as in Bristol: French-brandy from 5s. 6d. to 7s. per gall.: rum from 3s. to 5s.: and whiskey, which is a most excellent liquor, from 1s. 6d. to 3s.: applewhiskey about the same price: potatoes 14d. per bushel: other vegetables much higher than in England: and all articles of luxury very considerably dearer. I must observe, that the articles which are the produce of this country are about one-third cheaper, about 100 or 130 miles from Philadelphia, than at the distance I have mentioned. At Northumberland families may board for between two and three dollars each person per week.
You see from this account, that people are much deceived who imagine the expences of house-keeping in America are low. It is impossible to be upon a footing with the people here, without being engaged in some business; every business is valuable, and none despised; on the contrary, the very appearance of idleness and want of employment is contemptible.
It follows from what I have said, that persons coming into this country with a view to settle, will be subject to considerable expences during the time they are seeking for a situation; as well as before they receive any produce from their farm, if agriculture be their object. These two important inconveniencies would be obviated by commissioning any friend who may be on the spot to act for them. By these means they would have a place immediately to resort to, and the land might be productive as soon as they arrive. Upon this plan they would not be precluded from changing their situation whenever they thought proper; as, according to the present rise of lands in price, they would be so far from suffering any loss, should they be disposed to sell, that there is almost a certainty they would put money into their pockets; at the same time that their land produces enough to defray the expences of looking about them. There would be another advantage, which to me is not trifling, they would have a much greater opportunity of settling near their friends.
With respect to the fertility of Kentucky, we have been justly informed in England; but I need not give you a stronger proof of its ineligibility than that I lately saw a letter from Mr. T. of Lexington, in which he says the heat is so intense as to oblige him to leave it for Pennsylvania, as soon as his engagements will permit.
The Genesee has good land in many parts; in an uncleared state from two to three dollars per acre; but it is generally unhealthful, being much infested with intermittents, and too distant from the large towns.
With respect to our safe arrival in America, we have reason to rejoice, as our friends, whom we were to have accompanied, have been taken into France, which must be attended with much inconvenience. We have reason to expect them soon in America; as assurances of their intentions to reside here have been sent by the French ambassador to the French government, and also by Dr. P.
I am, My dear Friend, Your's, &c. L. J. J.
FINIS.